Lake Malawi - Desert Island Dreaming

Isn't it everybody's dream to spend time on a deserted island, but perhaps with a few more comforts than Robinson Crusoe? My ideal would be a chalet on wooden platform perched on giant boulders, topped with a thatched roof. It should have a balcony overlooking ridiculously clear water magnifying multitudinous azure and silver fish, and a large comfy hammock in which to snooze.

There should be kingfishers and cormorants darting around and majestic fish eagles perched on high branches. I would also like slinky iridescent lizards sunbathing on rocks and opaque night-time geckos eating up any biting insects. Under my canopy should be a tall roomy tent with soft mattress and aerating insect proof windows letting in the soft breeze. I want a discreet Man Friday to appear only at mealtimes with delicacies to tempt me and I want ice for my drinks and chilled wine. Well a girl can dream can't she?

Blissful Days

I found my dream in the middle of Lake Malawi and arrived on its shores in a sea-kayak. For a couple of blissful days there were just two of us and an inconspicuous staff of five on the island. We decided to stay one more night and radioed back to the Kayak Africa office (a laid-back thatched affair on the beach at Cape Maclear on the south-eastern shore of the lake). 'But your chef is going on leave today and I can't have you there without one,' came Malaika's reply.

We were more than happy to cater for ourselves for one day but this is not how Kayak Africa does things. Before we knew it, chef Number 2 arrived by kayak and our bulging stomachs were filled once more with freshly caught Tilapia (a type of Bream), potato bake, home made chips, salads, deserts and yes, iced drinks.

Kayak Africa have set up two exclusive island camps within the Lake Malawi National Park, on Domwe and Mumbo islands, and have exclusive use of them. They blend so perfectly into the background that it is hard to see the elevated wooden structures peeking out between the rocks under the shade of large trees. Domwe island camp is subtle and superb but Mumbo camp exceeds even this accolade. Heavenly I would call it.